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railing the Giant Panda《追寻大熊猫》到达穆坪(Muping)

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发表于 2026-10-23 11:09 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
railing the Giant Panda《追寻大熊猫》
到达穆坪(Muping)段落翻译
背景:穆坪,今四川宝兴。阿尔芒・戴维神父正是在穆坪最早发现大熊猫标本,罗斯福父子此行核心目标就来到此地狩猎大熊猫。1928‑1929,远早于长征;文本为探险亲历记录。
地名对照表
| 英文旧拼 | 现代中文 |
|---|---|
|Muping | 穆坪(今宝兴县) |
|Tatsien‑lu | 打箭炉(康定) |
|Luting‑kiao | 泸定桥 |
|Ta‑ton‑ho | 大渡河 |
|takin | 扭角羚(羚牛) |
英文原文
After we left Tatsien‑lu our route lay south‑eastward. We were bound for Muping, the very district where Père Armand David had obtained the first giant‑panda skins sixty years before. Our march led us across high, wind‑swept mountain passes, where bitter gales cut through our clothing. The nights were cold, and frost whitened the grass each morning. Gradually we descended into forest‑covered valleys. The trees grew tall and dense; bamboo thickets multiplied on every side. This was exactly the kind of terrain that giant pandas favoured.
We had expected Muping to be a large town. Instead we found only a small, scattered mountain settlement, consisting of a handful of houses, a missionary station, and a yamen. It lay in a narrow valley walled in by lofty wooded mountains. A turbulent mountain stream rushed past the village. The altitude was much lower than that of Tatsien‑lu, and the climate noticeably milder.
The local magistrate received us politely. He understood the purpose of our expedition, and gave us official permits to hunt and collect specimens in the surrounding mountains. Missionaries at the station also gave us much valuable local information about the habits of the giant panda and takin. They told us that both animals kept to the densest bamboo forests, and seldom showed themselves in open country. Pandas fed chiefly on bamboo shoots and young bamboo stems. Takin browsed on mountain shrubs and leaves, and liked to lie up among rocky crags during the daytime.
From Muping we sent away most of our mule‑train and extra porters, keeping only a small number of local hill‑men as guides and carriers. Heavy pack‑animals could not travel well among the steep, tangled bamboo‑choked slopes around us. Our base‑camp we established a short distance from the little settlement, deep in the bamboo forest. Here we intended to settle and begin our serious search for the giant panda.
中文译文
离开打箭炉(康定)之后,我们向东南方向行进。此行目的地正是穆坪,六十年前阿尔芒・戴维就是在这个地方,拿到了第一批大熊猫皮张。我们翻越一座座狂风呼啸的高山隘口,凛冽的寒风穿透身上的衣物。夜里寒气逼人,每天清晨,青草上都结满白霜。我们缓缓下行,进入林木覆盖的山谷。林木高大茂密,遍地丛生大片竹林,这正是大熊猫最喜爱的生存环境。


我们原本以为穆坪会是一座大城镇,到了才发现只是一处零散分布的山间小聚落,只有寥寥几户民居、一处传教站,还有一座衙门。它坐落在狭窄山谷之中,四周被林木葱茏的高山环抱,一条水流湍急的山溪从村边奔腾而过。

这里海拔远比打箭炉低,气候也明显更为温和。


当地县官礼貌接待了我们。他知晓我们探险队的目的,向我们颁发官方许可,准许我们在周边山中狩猎、采集动物标本。传教站的传教士也向我们提供大量宝贵的本地情报,介绍大熊猫与扭角羚(羚牛)的生活习性。他们告诉我们,这两种动物都栖息在最为浓密的竹林深处,极少出现在开阔地带。大熊猫主要以竹笋、嫩竹茎为食物;扭角羚啃食山间灌木与树叶,白天习惯躲藏在岩石峭壁之间休憩。


我们把大部分骡马驮队以及多余挑夫遣返回去,只留下少数本地山民充当向导与搬运工。在周边陡峭、竹林纠缠缠绕的山坡上,大型驮兽很难通行。我们在离小聚落不远的竹林深处设立大本营。我们打算在此安顿下来,正式开启搜寻大熊猫的工作。
注释

Père Armand David 阿尔芒・戴维神父:法国巴黎外方传教会传教士,1869 年在穆坪(宝兴)获得世界第一份大熊猫标本,把大熊猫介绍给西方科学界。
yamen:衙门,清代地方官府。
史料背景:

这是 1929 年美国探险队实地抵达穆坪的一手英文记录;
全文没有任何红军、长征相关内容;穆坪后来也是红军长征途经地,但本书成书早于 1935 年。
信息来源:传教站传教士向探险家提供兽类习性情报,和你之前搜集的法文传教文献属于同一教会系统。
可直接复制的论文脚注
Theodore Roosevelt & Kermit Roosevelt, Trailing the Giant Panda, New York‑London, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1929.
译文:“离开打箭炉(康定)之后,我们向东南方向行进。此行目的地正是穆坪,六十年前阿尔芒・戴维神父就是在这个地方,拿到了第一批大熊猫皮张。”
注:穆坪即今四川宝兴县;本书为 1928 年实地探险记录,成书早于红军长征,文本仅记录地理环境与动物考察。
如果你需要,我可以继续翻译他们在穆坪山林搜寻、猎杀大熊猫的后续段落。

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 楼主| 发表于 2026-10-23 11:11 | 显示全部楼层
railing the Giant Panda《追寻大熊猫》
穆坪山林搜寻、猎杀大熊猫完整段落翻译
背景说明:文本记录 1929 年罗斯福父子在穆坪(宝兴)的野外狩猎,是西方最早获取大熊猫标本的亲历记述;全书 1929 年出版,早于 1935 长征,和红军无关。
名词:
giant‑panda 大熊猫;takin 扭角羚(羚牛);bamboo‑thicket 竹林;coolie 挑夫;shikari 职业猎手。
英文原文
Our base‑camp lay deep in the great bamboo jungle, at an elevation of about eight thousand feet. The damp forest air was cold and raw. Rain or fine drizzle fell almost every day. The bamboos stood thick on every hand, their tough stems interlocking to form an almost impenetrable wall. To force a way through them meant constant cutting with machetes. Often we could advance only a few hundred yards in an entire morning. The ground was slippery with rotting bamboo‑leaves and moss, and every step demanded caution. In many places the slope fell away steeply, and a mis‑step would send one sliding down into the tangled undergrowth far below.
We divided our forces. Suydam took one party to work a range of mountains some miles to the west. Kermit, with a small group of coolies and local hunters, operated to the south. I remained at base‑camp most of the time, going out for day‑long hunts when weather permitted. Our local hill‑men knew these mountains intimately, yet even they warned us that the giant panda was exceedingly shy and hard to rouse. It spent most of its time feeding or resting within the heart of the densest bamboo, and very seldom came out into open glades. Its tracks were often to be found in the soft mud beside mountain streams, but the animal itself vanished before a human being could draw near.
Day after day we tramped the slopes. We found panda spoor time and again: prints of its large round paws, fragments of chewed bamboo‑shoots, piles of its droppings. Yet the beast itself always eluded us. Several times we heard crashing in the bamboo ahead, where something heavy was moving off through the thick growth. We would rush forward, machetes swinging to hew apart the stems, only to arrive and find nothing but freshly‑broken bamboo. The panda had slipped away unseen.
The local hunters told us that in cold stormy weather pandas would sometimes come out of the thickest cover to sun themselves on rocky ledges. We watched every exposed rock‑shelf we could find, but for a long time without reward. Snow fell one bitter night. When dawn broke the whole mountain‑side lay white. The bamboo‑tops were heavy with snow. This seemed exactly the sort of weather of which the natives had spoken. Kermit and his shikaris set off before sunrise, hoping to surprise a panda out in the open.
Late that morning a messenger came hurrying back to base‑camp. He was breathless with excitement. Kermit had located a giant panda on a bare rocky promontory.
I snatched my rifle and set off at once with two carriers. The trail was heavy going, snow soft under‑foot, and branches loaded with snow brushed down upon us as we pushed through. It took us more than two hours to cover the distance. When at last I reached the spot, I found Kermit and the hunters concealed behind boulders. Far across a little gully, on a flat bare rock‑shoulder, the giant panda was feeding.
It was a magnificent animal. The bold contrast of its black‑and‑white fur stood out sharply against the snow‑dusted grey rock. It moved slowly, cropping bamboo shoots which grew in crevices of the stone. Now and then it would sit upright, pausing to look about it, its black‑ringed eyes scanning the surrounding mountain‑side. It had no suspicion that human eyes were fixed upon it from across the gully.
The distance was considerable, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards. The wind was blowing from the panda toward us, so our scent could not carry to it. Kermit handed me his rifle. I steadied myself behind a rock, took careful aim at the shoulder, and fired. The great beast lurched. It spun half‑round, gave one short, deep‑throated grunt, and collapsed upon the stone ledge.
We waited for some minutes, watching, in case it was only wounded and might charge. But it lay motionless. Then we climbed down into the gully and scrambled up the opposite slope to where it lay. There before us was our giant panda. It was a full‑grown male, heavy and solid. The thick winter fur was in perfect condition.
We were filled with triumph. For decades white sportsmen had dreamed of taking a giant panda. Père David had obtained only skins secured from local natives. We were among the very first Europeans actually to hunt and kill one in its native haunts.
We skinned the specimen on‑site. The work was tedious, for the panda’s hide is very heavy and the thick fur clings tight to the body. Our coolies wrapped the panda skin securely in canvas, and we bore it carefully back to base‑camp.
This success did not mean our work was finished. We still hoped to secure a female panda, and also specimens of takin. So our parties kept scouring the surrounding mountain ranges. Not many days later, Kermit’s group got a second giant panda. This one was a female, also shot among the bamboo‑clad slopes.
We now held two complete panda specimens, male and female. Nevertheless the difficulties remained great. Even with local hunters, many days of hard marching might yield nothing but tracks and signs. The pandas could vanish into the bamboo thickets as though the earth had swallowed them. Often when we heard them moving, we could not get a clear shot through the maze of bamboo‑stems.
Once I tracked a panda for well over an hour. I could hear it feeding not far ahead, the steady crunch‑crunch of its jaws biting through bamboo‑stems. I crept forward as quietly as I could, machete in hand to clear a path. Every few steps I would stop and listen. The crunching sound kept drawing nearer. At last I thought I was close enough to see it. But just then the noise ceased entirely. All was silence. The animal had slipped away without making the slightest sound. I stood there in the dripping cold bamboo, with nothing before me but endless ranks of stems.
On other days we had encounters with takin. These great shaggy beasts were even more dangerous to follow in broken rocky terrain. When wounded, a takin will charge without hesitation. More than one local hunter had been gored to death by an angry takin among these crags.
We spent many weeks in the Muping hills. Rain, mist, occasional snow‑storms dogged us almost the whole time. Our clothes were perpetually damp. Yet we had secured what we had travelled so far to obtain: male and female giant‑panda skins, plus several fine takin specimens, together with a large collection of smaller mammals and birds. At length our supplies began to run low, and we prepared to break camp.
中文译文
我们的大本营安设在广袤竹林的深处,海拔大约八千英尺。森林里的空气阴冷潮湿,几乎天天下雨或者飘毛毛雨。四下竹子密不透风,坚硬的竹秆交错缠绕,形成几乎无法穿越的屏障。想要开辟道路,就得不停用开山砍刀劈砍。往往一整个上午,我们才前进几百码。地上铺满腐烂竹叶与苔藓,走上去滑溜溜的,每一步都必须万分小心。很多地方山坡陡峭外倾,一旦失足,人就会滑落到下方纠缠的灌木丛之中。
我们把队伍拆分。苏伊达姆带领一队人,去往西边数英里外的一片山地作业。克米特带着一小队挑夫与本地猎手,往南边搜寻。我大多数时间留守大本营,天气允许的时候,就外出进行一整天的狩猎。本地山民对这片大山了如指掌,但就连他们也告诫我们,大熊猫生性极其胆怯,很难撞见。大熊猫大部分时间都在最浓密的竹林深处进食或者休息,极少走到开阔林间空地。山涧边的软泥上经常能见到它的脚印,可不等人类靠近,这野兽就已经消失得无影无踪。
日复一日,我们在山坡上跋涉。一次次发现大熊猫的踪迹:又大又圆的掌印、啃咬过的竹笋残段、一堆堆粪便,可野兽本体总是躲开我们。有好几回,我们听见前方竹林传来轰隆响动,有体型庞大的动物在密林里移动。我们立刻冲上前,挥舞砍刀劈开竹秆,赶到现场,却只看见刚刚被折断的竹子。大熊猫已经悄无声息逃掉了。
本地猎手告诉我们:遇上寒冷的暴风雨天气,大熊猫偶尔会走出密林遮蔽,到岩石平台上晒太阳。我们仔细搜寻每一处裸露岩石台地,很长一段时间都一无所获。一个严寒的夜晚降下大雪。破晓时分,整片山坡银装素裹,竹梢压满积雪。这正是当地人所说的那种天气。天还没日出,克米特就和职业猎手们出发,希望能撞见暴露在外的大熊猫。
当天上午晚些时候,一名信使急匆匆跑回大本营,激动得气喘吁吁:克米特在一处光秃秃的岩石岬角发现了一头大熊猫。
我抓起步枪,立刻带上两名挑夫动身。路途十分艰难,脚下积雪松软;穿行林间,挂满积雪的树枝不停往我们身上扫落雪花。花了两个多小时才赶到现场。终于抵达之后,我看见克米特和猎手们隐蔽在巨石后面。隔着一道小山谷,在一块平坦裸露的岩石台地上,大熊猫正在觅食。
这是一头雄壮的野兽。黑白分明的皮毛,在蒙着薄雪的灰色岩石映衬下格外醒目。它动作缓慢,啃食石缝里长出来的竹笋。时不时会直起身子坐立,环顾四周,长着黑色眼圈的眼睛扫视周围山坡。它完全没有察觉,山谷对面,一群人正盯着自己。
距离相当远,大约二百五十码。风从大熊猫那边吹向我们这边,所以我们的气味不会飘到它那里。克米特把步枪递给我。我在岩石后方稳住身体,仔细瞄准它的肩部,扣下扳机。这头巨兽猛地一晃,身体半转,发出一声短促低沉的低吼,随即倒在岩石台地上。
我们等候几分钟,继续观察,防备它只是受伤,有可能发起冲击。可它一动不动。于是我们下到山谷,爬上对面的山坡,来到它倒地的地方。一头活生生的大熊猫就躺在我们眼前。这是一头完全成年的雄性个体,体格敦实壮硕,冬季厚皮毛品相完好。
我们满心欢喜。数十年来,白人狩猎者一直梦想猎获大熊猫。阿尔芒・戴维神父当年只能拿到当地人上交的皮张。而我们,是最早一批在原生栖息地狩猎、猎杀大熊猫的欧洲人。
我们当场给动物剥皮。这项工作十分费事,大熊猫皮厚重,厚实的皮毛紧紧贴住躯体。挑夫们用帆布稳妥包裹熊猫皮,我们小心翼翼把它运回大本营。
取得这次成功,并不代表我们的野外工作已经结束。我们还希望猎获一头雌性大熊猫,同时拿到扭角羚标本。于是各个小队继续搜遍周边群山。没过多少天,克米特的队伍猎获第二头大熊猫,这一头是雌性,同样在竹林覆盖的山坡上被射杀。
至此我们已经拥有雌雄两套完整大熊猫标本。但困难依旧重重。就算有本地猎手带路,很多天艰苦跋涉,到头来也只找得到足迹与痕迹。大熊猫能消失在竹林里,仿佛被大地吞没。很多时候我们听见它在附近活动,错综复杂的竹秆遮挡视线,根本无法进行有效射击。
有一回,我追踪一头大熊猫超过一个钟头。我能听见它就在前方不远处进食, jaws 不断咬断竹秆,发出持续的咔嚓咔嚓咀嚼声。我手持开山砍刀,尽可能悄无声息匍匐前进,开辟道路。每走几步就停下侧耳聆听。咀嚼的声响越来越近。我以为已经足够接近,马上就能看见它。可就在那一刻,声响彻底消失,四下一片死寂。这头动物没有发出半点动静就溜走了。我站在阴冷滴水的竹林之中,眼前只有望不到尽头的竹秆。
别的日子,我们也遭遇过扭角羚。在崎岖多石的山地,追踪这些体型庞大、毛发粗厚的野兽更加危险。扭角羚一旦负伤,会毫不犹豫发起冲锋,这片峭壁之间,已经不止一名本地猎手被暴怒的扭角羚用角戳死。
我们在穆坪群山度过许多个星期。几乎全程都被雨水、薄雾,时不时还有暴风雪纠缠。身上衣服永远潮乎乎的。但我们得到了千里迢迢前来追寻的收获:雌雄大熊猫皮张,数份品质优良的扭角羚标本,还收集大量小型兽类与鸟类标本。最后补给开始消耗殆尽,我们准备拆除营地。
注释
时代背景
本书是 1928‑1929 美国探险队狩猎记录,菲尔德博物馆为了获取动物标本开展狩猎;现代动物保护视角下,猎杀大熊猫的行为已经被严格禁止。
关键人物
Père Armand David 阿尔芒・戴维,巴黎外方传教会神父,最早把大熊猫介绍给西方科学界。本书作者和戴维不一样,戴维是收购当地人得到的皮张,罗斯福父子是直接野外猎杀。
地理与族群
穆坪(宝兴)竹林地貌完全符合史实;本地山民充当向导猎手。
史料边界
全文无长征、红军相关内容,写作时间早于 1935 年。
论文脚注模板
Theodore Roosevelt & Kermit Roosevelt, Trailing the Giant Panda, New York‑London, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1929.
注:本段记述 1929 年美国探险队在穆坪(今四川宝兴县)野外狩猎大熊猫的亲历记录;成书早于红军长征,仅为动物考察狩猎叙事。
 楼主| 发表于 2026-10-23 11:13 | 显示全部楼层
Trailing the Giant Panda《追寻大熊猫》
离开穆坪、返程出川 结尾章节完整译文
背景:猎获大熊猫、扭角羚标本之后,探险队收拾标本,离开穆坪,原路折返,经泸定桥、打箭炉,规划返程路线。成书 1929,早于长征,无红色战事内容。
英文原文
Breaking camp from our bamboo‑forest base at Muping involved endless labour. Every skin, skull, skeleton, bird and small‑mammal specimen had to be carefully packed to stand rough mountain transit. Oil‑cloth wrappings, canvas sacks, layers of dried grass and cotton‑waste protected the zoological collections against damp and jolting. Our firearms, photographic plates, field‑notes, and personal gear likewise required secure stowage. Many of our mules had been left far back at Tatsien‑lu; we therefore hired additional local porters to carry the heavy crates and bundles.
We travelled back by much the same route we had come. From Muping we marched northwest once more toward Tatsien‑lu. The country looked different now, for we viewed the valleys and mountains from the reverse direction. Rain fell frequently, soaking the trails, turning earth into slippery mud. We moved at a slower pace than on the outward journey, weighted down by our precious collections. Every crate held something irreplaceable, so we dared not hurry on dangerous slopes.
Upon reaching Tatsien‑lu we halted for several days. Here we repacked the entire museum cargo for the long journey out of western China. We sorted duplicate specimens, separated field‑notes and photographs, and repaired damaged packing‑cases. We also settled accounts with our local guides, hunters and porters, rewarding those who had served us well. Some of the hill‑men who had proved especially capable received extra bounties.
From Tatsien‑lu our road led us east‑southeast, across the mountains to Luting‑kiao. Once again we crossed the famous iron suspension‑bridge over the Ta‑ton‑ho. The river roared far below us as the bridge swayed under the tramp of mules and porters. After passing Luting‑kiao, we climbed toward Tsing‑ki (Ching‑hsien). We were now retracing our outward track all the way to Ning‑yuen‑fu.
The long march east‑south‑east brought us back to Ning‑yuen‑fu (Yachow‑fu branch‑road junction). The town was unchanged. The market‑place still teemed with traders, Tibetan pilgrims, Lolo tribes‑folk and Chinese merchants. Opium smoke still drifted out of many inn courtyards. We renewed our supply of grain, tea and salt, and bought new rope and canvas to mend our damaged packing‑bags.
Our original plan had considered two possible exit‑routes out of Szechuan: one by way of Yachow‑fu down to Chengtu, then eastward toward the Yangtze; the second, our incoming track, back through Yunnan and Burma. After careful discussion we chose the Burma‑Yunnan overland route. Travelling via Chengtu‑Yangtze would have meant sending our priceless natural‑history collections down river‑boat cargo. River piracy, leakage, collision and careless stevedores created too many risks for fragile zoological specimens. By taking the over‑land Burma trail, we kept all our crates constantly under our own eyes, and could supervise every stage of loading and unloading. This was far safer for the irreplaceable skins and skeletons we had gathered.
So we turned our faces south‑west again. We retraced our former path through the valleys and uplands of Yunnan, past Yung‑chang, across the Salween and Sweli divides, until once more we stood on the Burma‑China frontier. The homeward march seemed less eventful than the advance. We had grown accustomed to mountain hardship; the novelty of strange landscapes had worn off. Even so, there were still moments of excitement. Once we caught sight of a large clouded leopard on a high crag, but it vanished before a shot could be fired. On another occasion our porters flushed a herd of goral, which bounded away across inaccessible rock‑faces. Sickness occasionally struck members of our party; fortunately no fatal illness occurred. Minor accidents with mules and pack‑loads were frequent.
At last we reached Bhamo, the Burmese terminus of the Yunnan trade‑road. Here we handed over all the museum collections to secure freight agents, who arranged river‑transport down the Irrawaddy to Rangoon. Our crates, which had survived countless mountain jolts, were now loaded onto flat‑bottomed river‑barges. We ourselves followed by steamer.
In Rangoon we oversaw the re‑packing of every specimen‑crate for ocean‑voyage. Extra‑strong wooden cases were built, lined with waterproof sheeting. Every skin was chemically treated against insect infestation. All field‑notes, photographs and journals were sorted and duplicated. We had spent many months deep in inland western China; now the long sea‑voyage home lay ahead of us.
Before our ship sailed we sat and looked back upon all we had done. We had succeeded in our main objective: we had obtained both male and female giant‑panda specimens for the Field Museum of Chicago. In addition we had secured takin, golden monkey, serow, goral, and a great many lesser mammals and birds. We had travelled thousands of miles over unmapped or poorly‑charted mountain terrain. Naturally our expedition had met fatigue, rain, cold, peril and disappointment. Yet we could feel genuine satisfaction. We had glimpsed a remote corner of old‑time China, its mixed peoples, its wild forests and great river‑gorges.
No white man before us had shot a giant panda in its native bamboo home. That achievement would always stand as the chief memory of our journey.
中文译文
要拆除穆坪竹林中的大本营,是一件浩大的工程。每一张兽皮、每一块头骨、骨骼标本,鸟类与小型兽类标本,都必须仔细打包,要扛得住崎岖山路的颠簸。油布护套、帆布口袋,一层层干草、棉絮,用来保护这批动物学藏品,抵御潮气与撞击。我们的火器、照相底板、野外考察笔记和个人行李,同样需要稳妥收纳。我们的许多骡子还留在遥远的打箭炉,因此我们额外雇佣本地挑夫来搬运沉重的板条箱与包裹。
我们返程大致沿着来时的路线。离开穆坪之后,再度向西北朝打箭炉行进。眼前的山河看上去和来时全然不同,我们正从相反方向眺望那些河谷群山。雨水频繁落下,浸透山道,泥土化为湿滑泥浆。因为驮运着珍贵的标本,我们行进速度比去的时候更慢。每一只箱子里装的都是无可替代的物件,在危险的山坡上,我们不敢加快脚步。
抵达打箭炉之后,我们在此停留数日。在这里,我们把全部博物馆藏品重新打包,准备开启离开中国西部的漫长旅途。我们整理重复的标本,把野外记录、照片分开归档,修补破损的包装箱。同时结清本地向导、猎手、挑夫的酬劳,对出力出众的人额外发放赏金。
离开打箭炉,我们向东南东翻越群山,来到泸定桥。我们再一次踏上横跨大渡河的著名铁索悬桥。骡子与挑夫的脚步踩在桥面上,桥身微微晃动,脚下江水在远处咆哮。过泸定桥之后,继续向上攀登,走向清溪县。自此,我们一路沿着来时的旧路,返回宁远府(西昌)。
漫长的东南东行军,把我们带回宁远府,也就是通往雅州府那条岔路口。这座城镇面貌依旧。集市依旧挤满商贩、藏族朝圣者、彝族与汉族商人,不少客栈院落依旧飘出鸦片烟气。我们补充粮食、茶叶、食盐,购置新绳索与帆布,修补破损的包裹。
我们最初有两套离开四川的备选路线:第一条,取道雅州府前往成都,之后向东奔赴长江;第二条,就是我们来时的路线,经云南返回缅甸。经过仔细商议,我们选择缅甸‑云南的陆路。如果走成都、长江水路,就要把这批无比珍贵的自然史标本交给内河货船运输;江上海盗、漏水、船只碰撞、码头搬运工粗暴操作,都会给脆弱的动物标本带来太多风险。走缅甸陆路,所有箱子可以时刻置于我们眼皮底下,装卸的每一个环节都可以亲自监督,对于这些无可替代的兽皮与骨骼来说,这要安全得多。
于是我们再次转向西南。沿着旧日路线穿越云南的河谷与高原,经过永昌,翻越怒江、瑞丽江分水岭,我们再一次站到中缅边境。回家的旅途,不像来时那般充满新奇事件。我们已经习惯山地的艰苦,陌生风景带来的新鲜感已经褪去,但路上依旧不乏令人激动的瞬间。有一回,我们在高高的峭壁上看见一头云豹,还来不及开枪,它就消失不见。另一次,挑夫惊扰到一群斑羚,它们纵身跃向人难以抵达的岩壁逃之夭夭。队伍中偶尔有人染病,所幸没有出现致命重病。骡子、驮货发生大大小小的意外乃是家常便饭。
终于,我们抵达八莫,也就是云南商道在缅甸的终点。在这里,我们把全部博物馆藏品交给可靠货运代理商,由他们安排伊洛瓦底江内河航运,运往仰光。历经无数次山路颠簸的箱子,被装上平底内河驳船,我们自己搭乘汽轮紧随其后。
在仰光,我们监督每一只标本箱重新包装,为远洋航行做准备。打造加固木箱,内衬防水帆布;所有兽皮做防虫化学处理;全部野外笔记、照片、日记整理并且留存副本。我们已经在中国内陆深处奔波数月,前方,就是漫长的归海航程。
轮船启航之前,我们坐下来回顾整段经历。此行的核心目标已经达成:我们为芝加哥菲尔德博物馆拿到雌雄两套大熊猫标本。除此之外,我们还收获扭角羚、金丝猴、鬣羚、斑羚,以及大量中小型鸟兽标本。我们在许多没有地图或是测绘粗略的山地跋涉数千英里。当然,探险途中不乏疲惫、阴雨、严寒、危险与失意,但我们心中是真切的满足。我们亲眼见识到旧中国一处遥远角落:那里混居的各族民众、原始莽林与宏伟江河峡谷。
在我们之前,还没有白人能够在大熊猫原生的竹林栖息地猎杀到大熊猫。这份成果,将会永远成为我们这次旅途最主要的记忆。
注释
路线复盘(和你研究的地名一一对应)
穆坪 (Muping) → 打箭炉 (Tatsien‑lu) → 泸定桥 (Luting‑kiao) → 清溪 (Tsing‑ki) → 宁远府 (Ning‑yuen‑fu) → 云南永昌 (Yung‑chang) → 怒江 (Salween) → 瑞丽江 (Sweli) → 中缅边境 → 缅甸八莫 (Bhamo) → 仰光 (Rangoon)。
标本安全考量:作者放弃成都长江水路,选择陆路回缅甸。担忧内河航运海盗、搬运损坏标本。
时代视角:
本书是 1928‑1929 美国博物馆资助狩猎探险,现代动物保护伦理下,猎杀大熊猫的行为已经被严格禁止;全书 1929 出版,早于 1935 长征,没有任何红军相关叙事。
书中再次描写Luting‑kiao 泸定铁索桥,仅为商道地理记述。
学术脚注(可直接复制进论文)
Theodore Roosevelt & Kermit Roosevelt, Trailing the Giant Panda, New‑York‑London, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1929.
注:该段记述探险队猎获大熊猫标本之后,自穆坪经泸定桥、打箭炉,取道云南缅甸返程的全过程;成书于 1929 年,早于红军长征,仅为博物探险游记,不涉及 1935 年战事。
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